Pattern Review - Simplicity 1427

After Google's announcement that tulle skirts were en vogue this year, I decided to make one in one of my wardrobe colors - it would be an easy project and so whimsical that it would definitely cheer me up whenever I wear it.

This also gave me the opportunity to try one of Andrea Schewe's patterns; I follow her blog on and off and really enjoy reading about her design process and sewing tips.  Simplicity 1427 is one of her first forays into sewing for fashion, as opposed to the costumes she is known for.

I didn't have as many issues with this pattern as some people have; I attribute most of this to Andrea's helpful posts on this skirt.  I thought a lot of her insights were very helpful and explained many of the "why is the pattern like this?!?" questions that many seem to have about this pattern.  The instructions definitely highlights some of the problems with printed patterns and instructions; the instruction writers need to conform to some standard that pattern companies use, even though it's more intuitive to say "cut X strips in these dimensions, piece together to get something Y long", for example.  The pattern instructions also don't tell you why you are doing something, which goes a long way in explaining things like the yoke in this skirt.

Andrea Schewe - Skirt Design Process
Andrea Schewe - Skirt Sewing
Andrea Schewe - Skirt Yoke Explained

I did read through the instructions, but incorporated Andrea's advice and things I had read online about sewing with tulle.  I made view C, the long version, but in the view B length.  I did this by folding the view B ruffle pattern piece along the fold line and overlaying the gather/seam allowance with the view B overlay piece to get the correct length for the overlay.

I used a silk dupioni for the lining; I wanted to get a little gleam from under all the gray tulle and get the nice swishy rustle when I move around in it.  It's expensive ($15/yard) but since the nicer retail skirts go for close to $200 I thought it would be worth it!  You can use a polyester lining or dupioni and make this skirt for a much better value than I did.

Cutting the tulle accurately was a bit of a nightmare; good thing there are several layers and "close enough" is good enough for the project!  I ended up measuring the pattern pieces and cut the tulle at the right measurement.  Many people have commented on "why would you cut it across like this and not down the length of the tulle?"  I read on Andrea's blog that the tulle actually gathers better when cut this way.

The seams are overlapped and not typical seams; I felt this would look the best and would help me avoid pressing the nylon tulle any more than I had to.  I basically overlapped the edges at the seam line and stitched along.  The dupioni seams are all pressed open and serged.

I struggled a lot getting the elastic in the casing; I think the opening needs to be just a little bit bigger.

The skirt is sufficiently poofy, but I feel I get a little bit of lining peak-through on the yoke.  It's not enough to bother me but it's something to consider if you are using a contrasting lining or a light colored tulle.  I can wear a belt or a top over it to cover it if I feel self conscious.

I don't know that I would make another one of these again, but it was pretty easy (if a little time consuming in gathering the tulle!) and wearing the skirt feeds the carefree elements of my personality.  It would be nice to have them in a few colors but it's so out of my typical style that I don't know I need more than the one.  I do recommend the pattern, but just be aware of the instruction limitations and take a look at Andrea's comments.

Cost Breakdown

15 yards of silver tulle from Fabric.com = $14.85 (I have a bunch left over that I plan to make a matching hat with)
4 yards of silver silk dupioni from Silk Baron = $60 (I have probably 3/4 yard left over to make a hat with)
1 1/4 yard of 1 1/2 inch wide elastic = $2.48

I also purchased a spool of Gutermann thread when my thread stash came up short = ~$5.50 (bought the big spool)

Total spent: $77.33 ($82.83 if you count the thread)